As ever sending machine Dan Varian has been busy plying his trade over the last few months. Amongst the numerous new lines he’s climbed around the UK, he has added a number of noteworthy new problems in the Lakes.
On the Mosdale Boulders Dan did some work on the landing of the Mexican Rumble Block removing the big block behind it in the landing zone and further building up the patio. As a result he then climbed the underside/LH side of the prow from sitting not using any blocks for feet and starting on a nice pinch and an obvious crimp. This is around the hard 7C mark, whilst linking this LHS sitter without the blocks into Mexican Rumble is hard 7C+ and apparently features some really nice climbing. No name(s) as yet.
Over in central chaos of the main crag, Dan has added a number of fine new additions.
Shredder (7B+) This is located on the Moai Boulder just right of Beebop & Rocksteady. It starts from sitting with your LH on the Bebop start hold and ‘techs’ its way rightwards to finish up the lichenous arete above.
Knight Shifts (8A) This superb and crimpy affair lies on Kit’s Boulder. It starts on the diagonal rail in the centre of the east face before traversing leftwards to finish up Kit’s Arete. Image below.
Meconium (7C) Finally, for the Carrock additions, this delightfully named climb (look it up- yuk!) resides on a previously undocumented boulder situated between Punk’s Life and Get a Grip. The line tackles the niched overhang direct starting on a double-handed jug at the back. Once at the lip glorious slopes lead to the top….maybe wait for winter with this one!